Automatic Watches

Introduction

Automatic watches, often revered as masterpieces of engineering and craftsmanship, have captivated horology enthusiasts for centuries. Unlike their quartz counterparts, automatic watches harness mechanical movements powered by the wearer's motion, eliminating the need for batteries. The mechanisms designed by these companies are works of art and precision. Every gear, every spring and every jewel has to be placed perfectly and be lubricated properly or else the movement will lose efficiency or may even end up jammed.

1. History of Automatic Watches

1.1 Origins of Mechanical Timekeeping

The journey of mechanical timekeeping began in the 16th century with the invention of spring-driven clocks. These early devices laid the foundation for portable timepieces, leading to the creation of pocket watches. The quest for accuracy and convenience spurred innovations in watchmaking, culminating in the development of self-winding mechanisms.

1.2 The Birth of Self-Winding Watches

In 1777, Swiss horologist Abraham-Louis Perrelet introduced the first self-winding mechanism for pocket watches. His design utilized an oscillating weight that moved with the wearer's motion, winding the mainspring automatically. This innovation marked a significant milestone in horology, paving the way for future advancements in automatic watch technology.

1.3 Evolution Through the 20th Century

The early 20th century witnessed significant progress in automatic watch design. In 1923, British watchmaker John Harwood patented a wristwatch with a self-winding mechanism, eliminating the need for manual winding. Subsequently, in 1931, Rolex introduced the "Perpetual" rotor system, featuring a unidirectional winding rotor that enhanced efficiency and reliability.

1.4 The Quartz Crisis and Mechanical Resurgence

The 1970s brought the "Quartz Crisis," as affordable and accurate quartz watches from Japan disrupted the traditional watch industry. Many Swiss manufacturers faced challenges, leading to a decline in mechanical watch production.However, the 1980s saw a resurgence of interest in mechanical watches, driven by a renewed appreciation for craftsmanship and heritage.

2. Mechanics of Automatic Watches

2.1 Core Components

An automatic watch comprises several key components:

• Mainspring: This part stores energy when wound.

• Gear Train: Transmits energy from the mainspring to the escapement. Energy is converted from elastic potential energy to kinetic energy.

• Escapement: Regulates energy release, controlling the movement of the hands.

• Balance Wheel: Oscillates to maintain consistent timekeeping.

• Rotor: A semi-circular weight that rotates with wrist movement, winding the mainspring automatically.

2.2 Self-Winding Mechanism

The hallmark of an automatic watch is its self-winding capability. The rotor, connected to the movement, swings with the wearer's motion, transferring energy to the mainspring. This continuous winding ensures the watch remains powered as long as it's worn regularly.

2.3 Complications and Features

Beyond basic timekeeping, many automatic watches boast additional features, known as complications. These include date displays, chronographs, moon phases, and perpetual calendars, showcasing the watchmaker's skill and enhancing functionality.

3. Physics Behind Automatic Watches

3.1 Energy Conversion

Automatic watches operate on the principle of energy conversion. Kinetic energy from wrist movements is transferred to the rotor, which winds the mainspring, storing potential energy. This energy is then released through the gear train and escapement, driving the hands.

3.2 Harmonic Oscillation

The balance wheel and hairspring function as a harmonic oscillator, oscillating at a consistent frequency. This regular motion ensures accurate timekeeping, as each oscillation advances the gear train by a fixed amount.

3.3 Friction and Lubrication

Minimizing friction is crucial for the longevity and accuracy of a watch. Synthetic jewels, typically rubies, are used at pivot points to reduce wear. Additionally, specialized lubricants are applied to moving parts to ensure smooth operation and prevent degradation.

4. Maintenance and Care

4.1 Regular Servicing

To maintain optimal performance, automatic watches should be serviced every 3 to 5 years. Servicing involves disassembling the movement, cleaning components, replacing worn parts, and reapplying lubricants.

4.2 Proper Storage

When not in use, store your watch in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and magnetic fields (unless it's a Milgauss). Using a watch winder can keep the movement active, preventing lubricants from settling and ensuring the watch remains accurate.

4.3 Handling Precautions

Avoid exposing your watch to extreme temperatures, shocks, or chemicals. Regularly clean the case and bracelet with a soft cloth, and ensure the crown is securely closed to maintain water resistance. If any debris enters the watch it could seriously harm the mechanism.

5. Appeal of Automatic Watches

5.1 Craftsmanship and Heritage

Automatic watches are celebrated for their intricate craftsmanship and rich history. Owning such a timepiece connects the wearer to centuries of horological tradition and innovation.

5.2 Mechanical Fascination

The visible movement of gears and the smooth sweep of the second hand offer a mesmerizing glimpse into the watch's inner workings, appealing to enthusiasts and collectors alike.

5.3 Status Symbol

Luxury automatic watches often serve as status symbols, reflecting the owner's appreciation for fine craftsmanship and timeless elegance.

6. Factors Contributing to Higher Costs

6.1 Quality Materials

Premium materials, such as stainless steel, gold, platinum, and sapphire crystal, are commonly used in automatic watches, enhancing durability and aesthetics.

6.2 Skilled Craftsmanship

The assembly of automatic watches requires meticulous handcrafting by skilled watchmakers. Similar to surgeons, they need extremely steady hands and need to be highly attentive individuals to ensure they are not missing anything inside the watch.

6.3 Research and Development

Continuous innovation in movement design and materials necessitates significant investment in research and development, which is reflected in the watch's price.

6.4 Brand Prestige

Renowned watchmakers with a legacy of excellence command premium prices due to their reputation, heritage, and the exclusivity of their timepieces.

Conclusion

Automatic watches represent a harmonious blend of art, science, and tradition. Their enduring appeal lies in the intricate mechanics, historical significance, and the emotional connection they foster with their owners. While they may come at a higher cost, the value they offer in terms of craftsmanship, longevity, and prestige makes them cherished possessions for generations. At 87jewellers we offer a range of preowned automatic watches. We also offer many services such as servicing and polishing.